This movie has reminded a lot of a lonely childhood sharing a single or two friendship, in the wake of a parental divorce with the love of a single mother. It demonstrates how everything in life is possible and no matter the size of the wave, for me it is more like a 2ft max, easy access to an inexpensive sport and a tutor is all what matters. I used to think I was weird being from a single mum household only to discover over the boundaries of my hometown I was very normal meeting friends in the same case in Sweden, Japan, Germany. I am now in a similar situation when I need to offer cours d’anglais à Dijon and maybe have new goals like Jay.
The soundtrack is very good and puts you in a bohemian type of mental, that I have experienced during my stay in Sydney walking on bare-naked feet to catch some surf before work across the unperfect streets of North Bondi, leaving my basic studio however comfy behind me and my stomach full with crispy bacon and toasts.
I would recommend this to young starter not knowing where to go in life, poisoned and lost by comments of all sorts from school mates for instance. If you will like to offer cours d’anglais à Dijon like me in France, you might like this movie as a way to have a model.
The scenes are very impressive and sweets. For everyone who knows what it feels like to paddle, even toward a 1 meter high wave, this movie brings definetely the same type of adrenalin rush and fear.
The main character is obviously very fragile and we care for him. It came as no surprise for me the real Jay died early. It definetely erases the likes of Break Point, which title in itself is meaningless and shows a fantasized type of surf feeding the youngest egos and most unaware viewers.
The movie is all about preparation and the building of a character and not raving how on to catch the best wave.
The best sentence for me in this movie comes from “300” Gerard Butler (I knew he is not only looking like my landlord) when he says: “fear is healthy, panic is not”.
I might probably give this to my cours d’anglais à Dijon in here as an example of easy movie to understand.
For us in France and most conservative towns this movie might look like very naive, however this is exactly how life is all about in Australia or France. We rush for what we enjoy, for where we can use our talent to develop our mind and actually apply our values and into adulthood.